El Alto ha cambiado de manera imponente en esta última década, considerando que en el siglo pasado esta ciudad era catalogada como marginal y pobre, de gente humilde y escasos recursos económicos. Las calles polvorientas y barrosas en épocas lluviosas delataban que esta ciudad tenía mucho por progresar. Pero hoy en día es la segunda ciudad más poblada de Bolivia, la más joven de Sudamérica, considerada la capital andina de Bolivia y para sus autoridades y vivientes incluso: “la ciudad del futuro”.
Según indican sus autoridades, más de un 70% de los pobladores son aymaras, los cuales practican con mucha fuerza día a día los usos y costumbres que han hecho prevalecer los Amawtas -sabios y guías espirituales andinos- y Yatiris -curanderos aymaras-, a la vez se puede apreciar por doquier a las mujeres de pollera conocidas como “cholas” o como se les denomina con cariño en diminutivo “cholitas”.
Al ser la capital andina de Bolivia, el folklore se manifiesta cada fin de semana en las más de mil zonas que tiene. Es normal para el alteño presenciar una recepción social en plena vía pública, donde el colorido de las mantas y polleras de las cholitas marcan el compás de la morenada, danza tradicional del folclore paceño.
Al transitar por las calles de El Alto es imposible dejar de observar esos edificios coloridos con detalles tiwanakotas en su fachada, de más de cinco pisos, con tiendas de comercio en la planta baja. En los primeros pisos locales o salones de eventos sociales y en el último piso su “chalet” o como hoy en día lo llaman “cholet”, un término que surgió de forma peyorativa pero que se ha consolidado como una marca del estilo arquitectónico neoandino.
“Son términos despectivos o comerciales pero para mí es Arquitectura Andina, marca alteña, marca boliviana; es una arquitectura for export, ícono de la ciudad que ahora tiene un potencial turístico, estamos embelleciendo EL Alto a través de la pintura”, explica el arquitecto Freddy Mamani, precursor de este estilo arquitectónico.
Es una tendencia que ha llamado la atención de medios de prensa internacionales, también de los turistas que visitan El Alto, porque demuestra la autenticidad de una población aymara y la economía que ha generado gracias a su incansable trabajo. Nació aproximadamente el 2004, mayormente en los interiores de una edificación, específicamente los locales “donde los aymaras van a vivir la vida”, como dicen popularmente en esa zona.
Los tres niveles de la cosmovisión andina: Manqha Pacha o mundo inferior, interno subsuelo; Akapacha que se refiere a este mundo, la tierra donde vivimos los humanos; y Alaxpacha, un nivel superior, el cielo, se reflejan en estas edificaciones puesto que en el Akapacha, donde se encuentra el local o salón de eventos sociales, existe una diversidad de colores, dándole vida al ambiente, donde a la vez se celebran importantes recepciones sociales, como bodas, bautizos, recepciones sociales de aniversarios y entradas folklóricas.
Hoy en día, la Arquitectura Alteña–Andina ya es un patrimonio arquitectónico y turístico de El Alto, es así que el Gobierno Autónomo Municipal de este municipio, a través de la Unidad de Turismo, ha impulsado una ruta turística planificada en la urbe, donde se involucran estas edificaciones. Denominada Ruta Turística de “Arquitectura Alteña – Andina”, el pasado 25 de abril, se realizó el primer recorrido con más de 40 personas, entre bolivianos, franceses, daneses y mexicanos.
Arquitectura y cultura como atractivo central
Durante la Ruta Turística de Arquitectura Alteña – Andina se exhibió un estudio de la cronología de la evolución de las edificaciones de El Alto, iniciando desde una humilde choza de barro y paja, pasando por las construcciones con ladrillo, las edificaciones con varias plantas hasta llegar a los palacios aymaras o “cholets” que, según detallaron, el más caro superaría los 2 millones de dólares.
Durante el recorrido, además de que el guía detalla los datos históricos – culturales, dos Amawtas explican minuciosamente la iconografía de la fachada de estas infraestructuras entre las que destacan la cruz Chakana, colores, círculos y otros detalles muy atractivos y enigmáticos del interior de los salones de eventos.
La popular Plaza Juana Azurduy de Padilla,de la Zona Villa Dolores, una de las primeras zonas establecidas en El Alto, es el punto de encuentro desde donde arranca el recorrido a las 07:45 con turistas ansiosos de conocer esta icónica ciudad. Nuestra primera parada fue el Colegio de Arquitectos de El Alto puesto que su edificación, según el guía, fue la primera que rompió la monotonía arquitectónica del entorno de esta ciudad.
El recorrido continua hacia el mayor reservorio cultural de esta zona, el Museo Antonio Paredes Candia. Siguiendo la ruta se va al Mirador Virgen Blanca donde los amawtas explican sobre el Alaxpacha y el Jilir Mamani (Illimani).
El siguiente punto es uno de los más esperados por los turistas que desean conocer el interior del famoso Salón Don Vico, un palacio aymara lleno de vida y hermosa decoración. El propietario muy amable invita a subir a su chalet desde donde se contempla la ciudad de El Alto. Continuando la ruta se visita los exteriores de cuatro edificaciones de la llamada Arquitectura Alteña – Andina.
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